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OSU research smokes out wine 'taint' compound

In a vineyard, a man kneels next to a small barbecue. A pipe from the barbecue feeds smoke into a tent where some wine grapes grow.
Sean Nealon
/
Oregon State University
Cole Cerrato, a postdoctoral student in Elizabeth Tomasino's lab, conducts research at Oregon State University's Woodhall Vineyard

Winemakers may soon be able to raise a toast, even after a growing season marked by wildfire smoke.

Researchers at Oregon State University have discovered a new set of compounds that cause smoke taint in wine.

Previously, the ashy flavor was attributed to “volatile phenols”—but tests for those compounds didn’t predict whether wine had a smoky taste.

Elizabeth Tomasino is an Associate Professor at OSU and led the research. She told KLCC they discovered a set of sulphur-containing compounds called thiophenols, which are associated with burnt bacon and very charred meat.

Tomasino said winemakers will now have a test to learn which wines are affected, and should soon be able to clear out the thiophenols. However, “there’s still some research that needs to be done, because unfortunately, a lot of remediation doesn’t just remove those thiophenols, they remove other beneficial compounds we’d like, but it puts us a lot further ahead than we were.”

Tomasino said her lab continues to work with UC Davis and Washington State University on the issue. The work is funded by grants from the USDA and other organizations.

A woman in a white lab coat stands at a workbench and pours thick wine slurry into a beaker.
Sean Nealon
/
Oregon State University
Jenna Fryer, an OSU graduate student, processes grape samples before analyzing the grapes for smoke compounds.

Karen Richards joined KLCC as a volunteer reporter in 2012, and became a freelance reporter at the station in 2015. In addition to news reporting, she’s contributed to several feature series for the station, earning multiple awards for her reporting.
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