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Nuno: Weaving Tradition and Technology in Japanese Textiles At the White Lotus

Watayuki tells the Japanese poem theme called “First cotton snow.” Merino wool.
Sandy Brown Jensen
/
KLCC
Watayuki tells the Japanese poem theme called “First cotton snow.” Merino wool.

I’m the first to admit that I know little to nothing about the Asian arts. So when I walked into the White Lotus Gallery in response to a press release with one strange word, “Nuno,” I truly didn’t know what to expect.

H. P., doyen of The White Lotus Gallery, welcomes an interested Eugene crowd to the opening of the new Nuno exhibit.
Sandy Brown Jensen
/
KLCC
H. P., doyen of The White Lotus Gallery, welcomes an interested Eugene crowd to the opening of the new Nuno exhibit.

I walked into a gallery hung with fabulously beautiful fabrics that appeared to be worn as lightweight shawls. I started to peel the moment like an onion, one layer after another by reading, talking, looking and touching.

The White Lotus “Nuno” exhibit showcases the elegance and grace of fabrics created by a network of Japanese families.
Sandy Brown Jensen
/
KLCC
The White Lotus “Nuno” exhibit showcases the elegance and grace of fabrics created by a network of Japanese families.

I was in the presence of Nuno, a design company out of Japan, brain child of a world-renowned textile designer Reiko Sudo. Why is that special? Because in Japan over hundreds of generations, families all over the country have specialized in different aspects of spinning, dying, and milling fabric.

Textile detail
Textile detail

These unique skills are dying out for all the usual post-modern reasons. The company called Nuno has reached out and given them work again but with a twist—now they are using state-of-the-art materials and high-tech manufacturing technologies.

Chad Patton, NUNO representative, demonstrates the magic of origami fabric
Sandy Brown Jensen
/
KLCC
Chad Patton, NUNO representative, demonstrates the magic of origami fabric

But there’s more of this onion to peel. The designers themselves are coming up with fabrics the world hasn’t seen before. For example, one day Reiko and her team were sitting around a tea house talking and absently folding straws into origami. They got the idea to fold a cardboard into origami shape. They pressed a diaphanous high tech polyester against it and applied heat that made the folds permanent. They removed the cardboard and developed a fabric that opens up into a 3-D origami scarf as fine as spider silk. Dropped, it collapses into a silvery slippery ribbon like magic.

Textile detail
Textile detail

Another example is a Merino wool shawl with a delicate design called Watayuki, the Japanese idea of the first snow of winter. Now I see. A shawl with a poem—this is a very high, refined art of storytelling and imagination spoken through the language of textiles.

Textile detail
Textile detail

Now I see why this amazing show has taken pride of place at the White Lotus Gallery.

Sandy Brown Jensen has an MFA in Poetry and is a retired writing instructor from Lane Community College. She is an artist and a photographer with a lifetime interest in looking at and talking about art. Sandy hosts KLCC's long-running arts review program Viz City.